Kalaals - The Winemakers of Punjab

Desi Daru from Northern India

History of Alcohol in India

Alcoholic beverages in the Indus Valley Civilization appeared in the Chalcolithic Era around 3000 BC. The people living in the region that comprises modern India and Pakistan, practiced both fermentation and distillation of beverages using sweet and starchy items.

Here are some facts that may surprise you but these are historically TRUE. Did you know that:

1. Ancient Indo-Aryans consumed a wine called "Sura" produced from grapes
2. Indo-Aryans also drank an alcoholic beverage called "Madira" or "Madhu" made from fermented honey (Mead)
3. Drinking bars called "Madhushala" or "Mayakhana" existed in medieval India 
4. Barmaids in medieval Mughal India were called "Saqi"
5. The concept of distilling "Rum" from sugarcane originated in Northern India (Punjabi Desi or Lahan or Tharra)?
6. Kalaals are a specific caste of winemakers in Punjab (Ahluwalia or Walia

Ceramic Pots used for Pickles and Brewing

Traditional Brews from India

Different parts of India brew or distill their alcoholic drinks from the locally available grains, fruits, vegetables, or even flowers. 

• Taadi, Palm wine is produced from the sap of palm tree and coconut palms in South India. 
• Mahua, is an alcohol made from Mahua flowers in Bihar and Orissa. 
• Feni  is a spirit produced exclusively in Goa from cashew. 
• Hadia is a rice wine made in Madhya Pradesh and Chhatisgarh region.
• Kesar Kasturi in produced by adding saffron to sugarcane juice in Rajasthan.
• Lugdi  is made by fermenting rice or barley in Himachal. It is also called Chhaang. When distilled further, its called Arak.
• Lahan or Desi is brewed and distilled from sugarcane in Punjab and Haryana.

  

  Gurh for Sale in Punjab

Desi  Daru or Lahan

The villagers in Punjab brew their own alcohol, calling it "Desi", “Kuppi” or “Lahan” — the commonly used names for the alcohol. Its known as "Tharra" in Haryana and Western UP. It is traditionally prepared from a procedure that has been passed down for centuries. It is the primary and most popular alcoholic beverage in Punjab's villages and for the poor and middle class in urban and city areas. It is fermented and distilled from molasses which is a by product of sugarcane.

Sugarcane Juice

Lahan or Desi has been the spirit made by farmers in the country side. Desi uses commonly in the villages available ingredients like sugarcane juice, Gurh or Jaggery, Bark of Keekar tree. herbs, fruits and grains. This spirit is produced clandestinely in desolated places e.g. farm houses, hills, isolated cottages. In each village you can expect to find one or two units operating illegally.

Desi brewing Pit in Punjab

People like to take a swig of Desi Daru after a hard day’s work in order to enjoy the evening. Here is video of how "Lahan" is distilled illegally in rural Punjab:

Risks of Home Distilling

Distilling alcohol outside of a registered distillery is illegal in India but "Lahan" or "Desi", a moonshine made by fermenting Gurh or sugarcane juice has been in use in rural Punjab illicitly. Beers and wines brewed from fruits, such as apples, grapes, and sugarcane naturally contain poisonous methanol in small amount. The percentage of methanol increases in the distillation of spirits thus making "Lahan" or moonshine more dangerous.

During the distillation process methanol is concentrated at the start of the run because it has a lower boiling point than ethanol and water. The boiling point of methanol is approximately 148 F, which is quite a bit lower than ethanol (the good stuff). This means that methanol (148F boiling temp) will start to boil before the ethanol (174F boiling temp). This is why you should always throw out the first bit of shine they produce from each run. 

Unfortunately in Punjab, there is widespread ignorance of this risk and people give special preference to the initial distillation - "Pehli Todi". Its a common belieff that Desi’s distinct mellowing taste and aroma make them feel well right from the first sip. “The filling in the first bottle is the strongest,” the bootlegger proudly exclaimed. “So we usually mix it with the rest of the mixture to dilute it.”

This dangerous practice has been the cause of poisoning from "Lahan" in Punjab and other parts of Norther India. Ignorant singers and song writers have romanticized the "Pehle Tod di sharab" in Punjabi songs, Here is an example of this ignorance:

Ahluwalia Clan

It is a known fact that all the clans of Ahluwalias and Walias descended from Jassa Singh Kalaal (Ahluwalia). Only the descendants of Jassa Singh Kalal are now known as Walias and Ahluwalias. Most Ahluwalias are Sikhs but there are Kalaals in India and Pakistan, who are Hindus or Muslims.  Some clans don't use their last name as Ahluwalia, instead they use their Gotra, or even the name of the village that they were born in, such as, Channi, Dhaul, Jaspal, Judge, Narula, Paul,  Ratra, and Walia.

Kalaal collecting grapes in Northern Pakistan

Syed Mohd Latifs history of the Punjab and lists Kalaals migrated from Iran which was home to the finest wine makers in history. A large group settled in a village named "Ahlu" near Lahore. The residents of Ahlu embraced Sikhism came to be called Ahluwalias. They dropped wine making as Sikhism like Islam forbade use of wine, and became businessmen traders and farmers. The rise of the Misls placed them in eminent position in the society such as the royal family of Kapurthala.

Grape Stomping in Norther Pakistan

The Muslim Kalaal survived in Northern Pakistan and still produce wine in ancient traditions defying hostile religious injunctions against alcohol in the mountains of Pakistan.

Kalaal Elder tasting Fresh Wine

Sadly, the ancient art of wine making and distilling alcohol in traditional way has disappeared in Punjab. Many youngsters don't even know that "Rum" produced from sugarcane originated in Punjab region and the red wine has historical link to the region of Iran and Punjab.

Traditional Distilling Pots from Punjab Region

Alcohol Problem in Sikh Communities

Men born in India but living in Britain and USA have higher than expected treated prevalence rates of alcohol-related disorders. A community survey of random samples of 200 each of Sikh, Muslim and Hindu men and 200 white men in British Midlands, concluded that heavier levels of alcohol consumption were reported by Sikhs born in India than by Sikhs  born in Britain. Among regular drinkers Sikhs had higher average Alcohol Problem Scale Scores than did white men or Hindus.

Sikh Youth in a Pub in UK

SIKHS should do more to protect young people in the community from becoming addicted to alcohol, doctors, community workers and recovering alcoholics have said, as figures show a rise in the number of alcohol-related deaths among those aged over 50. Parents need to be aware of this issue and educate their young on healthy habits and moderation in alcohol consumption.

References

• https://www.geni.com/surnames/walia
• https://www.dawn.com/news/1214128
• https://medium.com/@nayadaurpk/spirits-having-flown-a-pictorial-history-of-alcohol-consumption-in-pakistan-a34ad435e0e1
• http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p058dh8y
• https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2378993
• https://www.easterneye.eu/drink-addiction-rife-among-young-old-sikh-community/